Genuine parts and accessories are produced and branded by the original manufacturer and are typically of the highest quality but come at a premium price. OEM parts are also made by the original manufacturer but may lack branding, offering a balance between quality and cost. Aftermarket parts, made by third-party manufacturers, are more affordable but vary in quality and compatibility, making them a cost-effective option for non-critical components.

Some parts are VIN specific. Information about these parts can be easily found on the item page. Take a look at our comprehensive and free of charge parts and accessories catalogues. If you ever find yourself unsure about the vehicle application of any parts, please reach out to our team of experts with your full Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

Yes, we provide international shipping for MG parts and accessories. Whether you're in the UK or abroad, you can enjoy the convenience of ordering quality MG components from Rimmer Bros.

Absolutely. Our expert team includes MG enthusiasts with extensive technical knowledge. Contact us with your questions, and we'll provide the expert guidance you need for your MG project.

Original spec matching is a common concern among MG enthusiasts. Genuine heritage parts will carry the correct part number stamped or cast into the component, matching your workshop manual references. For aftermarket alternatives, examine the material composition - period-correct parts for pre-1980s MGs should use the appropriate alloys (zinc die-cast for many B-series components rather than aluminium). Check critical dimensions with vernier callipers against original specifications. The thread pitch on fasteners is particularly crucial - many MGs use British Standard Whitworth or UNF threads rather than metric. If you're unsure, bring your original part to us for comparison or consult the relevant factory drawings in the workshop manual. Remember, incorrect material selection can lead to premature failure, particularly with components subject to heat cycling, like manifolds and water pumps.

SU and Weber carburettor troubles often stem from overlooked details rather than maintenance frequency. The ethanol content in modern fuels deteriorates the original-spec float needle valves and can swell rubber components not designed for it. When replacing these parts, opt for ethanol-resistant materials specifically engineered for contemporary fuel compositions. Check that your float heights are set precisely - even 1mm deviation can cause running issues. For SU carburettors, ensure the dashpots use the correct oil weight (20W is generally appropriate) and inspect the throttle spindles for wear, as they're often overlooked. We recommend using ethanol-resistant rebuild kits where applicable and supplementing your fuel with an ethanol stabiliser like Valvemaster. This helps preserve rubber and alloy components while supporting smoother running.

Catalogue inconsistencies are a common frustration, particularly for 1967 models, which saw multiple mid-year production changes. The most reliable reference is always the commission number (chassis number) and engine number rather than just the year. Many catalogues use original factory drawings but don't always account for running production changes. For absolute clarity, cross-reference the catalogue part number with the original parts books (AKD3259 for your MGB GT) and the relevant workshop manual. Pay particular attention to the suffix letters on part numbers - they indicate critical revisions. For example, early '67 MGBs used the AUD235 rear axle, while later ones switched to the AUD550 with slightly different bearing dimensions.

The compatibility between early and late Midget components is often misunderstood, even by some seasoned mechanics. The critical transition points were 1966 (moving from separate chassis pieces to the integrated structure), 1972 (significant changes to bulkhead and suspension mounting points), and 1974 (the switch to rubber bumpers, altering weight distribution and ride height). These changes mean seemingly identical parts often have subtle but critical differences - suspension mounting points shifted by as little as 4mm can introduce dangerous handling characteristics. Front anti-roll bar geometry varies significantly between early and late cars, as does the steering rack mounting position. When selecting braking components, the master cylinder bore size must match the specific model year to maintain the proper pedal feel and braking performance. We understand the importance of getting the right part for your specific model and production year. That’s why our listings clearly reflect the differences between components across various Midget production periods - helping you avoid the compatibility issues that can derail a restoration. Our team’s product knowledge and attention to detail mean you can order with confidence, knowing you're getting parts that fit and function as intended.